Thai chef Narong Lasuai, who has lived in Estonia for eight years, embraces local life with a smile, defying cultural shocks and bringing a taste of authentic Thailand to Tallinn.
Narong Lasuai – known as New among friends – hails from the Isaan region of Thailand. Married to an Estonian man, he has lived in Estonia for eight years and works as the head chef at New Thai restaurant in Tallinn. I invite New to the legendary Tallinn eatery Kodused Toidud early on a Saturday morning. Instead of a painting, a hole adorns the wall, and they serve proper, delicious Estonian food. I want to give him a cultural shock – good-naturedly, of course. But it doesn’t work.
You’ve lived in Estonia for a long time. How was it in the beginning? It’s a very different environment, after all.
Adapting to Estonia wasn’t too difficult for me because Estonia is quiet – and I like peace. People in Thailand and people here aren’t all that different. Yes, Estonians may seem distant and unfriendly, but in reality, Estonian people are very nice. I don’t think Estonia is culturally much different from my homeland, Thailand – we just have slightly different traditions.
When I first came to Estonia, I was very surprised that people seemed distant, and I was a stranger to them. People seemed quiet. They didn’t smile, they were always serious. But then I learned about your history and understood why. The reserved nature of people has undoubtedly been shaped by the past – when there was war and Estonia was an occupied country. Nowadays, when I go to the farmers’ market in the morning, people recognise me and express their joy. That warms my heart!
Did you have any specific expectations when you moved to Estonia? How did it all come about?
I first visited in 2014 – for two weeks. When I first arrived, I was really surprised: why don’t your people seem to enjoy life at all? They’re so quiet! I went to a shop to buy something, greeted everyone, and no one said anything back. But since then, things have improved – a lot!
I feel that Estonians have had more contact with Thailand during this time. Nowadays, so many people travel there, and it often happens that someone comes to the restaurant and exclaims with excitement: “I love Thailand, I love the people there!”
And what do you say to that?
I tell them that if they really want to experience authentic Thai culture, then for heaven’s sake, don’t go to touristy places. Go to the villages or at least visit the city where I’m from – Udon Thani, go to Nong Khai, go to the Isaan region. There, you’ll meet so many truly beautiful people! And by beautiful, I don’t mean outward beauty, but cultural richness.
I wouldn’t recommend going to popular tourist destinations like Phuket and Pattaya because everything there has changed. It’s all about money – money, money, money! There’s no trace of culture left! Huge crowds of tourists have overrun those places. I personally wouldn’t go there.
That said, I love my country! (New bursts out with jovial sincerity.) People smile there.
Is he referring to the regions near the Thai–Malaysian border, where ethnic tensions occasionally simmer beneath the surface – places that tourists, enchanted by the “Land of Smiles”, often don’t even know exist? I won’t go into that now, because at this moment I want to focus solely on the symbiosis between Thailand and Estonia.
You’re often in the restaurant. Do you have the same overworking mentality that seems ingrained in most Estonians?
No! I do work a lot, but not too much! There are four of us in the kitchen. Even with three people, we can manage if one steps away. And I do take breaks.
What happens in the kitchen when the head chef takes a break?
Then my friend takes over. I always emphasise to everyone in the kitchen that when I’m away, they shouldn’t think of me as the main person. You come to work with me, I teach you everything I know. And then we work like a family, like friends. The most important thing is mutual respect. When someone joins my kitchen, I try to create an atmosphere where it’s not about my job or your job. Kitchen work is one big task – we’re here to help each other.
You speak Estonian. What motivated you to learn the language?
I started learning while still in Thailand when I knew I would be coming here. At first, with the help of YouTube. I wanted to be able to say simple things, like tere (hello) – just basic politeness. Later, my motivation also came from the fact that I wanted to work as a chef. I was afraid that maybe the government would introduce a law like in Germany, where you need to know the national language to work anywhere.
Many Thais seek work abroad and send money back home. Do you do the same?
That’s part of our culture. Here, people criticise me for working so much and then sending my earnings to Thailand. But I believe that’s the right thing to do! (New becomes emotional.) In Thailand, there are no social safety nets, pensions are practically non-existent, and if something goes wrong, you have to manage on your own.
The family member I send money to is my older sister. She took care of me, and now she is like my mother. My mother and father died in a car accident. My brother was with them in the car and didn’t survive either. I was 12 years old at the time. Another brother was coming home from school, was hit by a car, and also died. Now I send money to my sister, who is building a house for us. For us, not for me. Maybe I won’t be there anymore, but she will, so she won’t have to think that it’s my house – it’s our house. Her daughter and son’s house too. And if I ever want to return to Udon Thani, I’ll have a place to stay.
Was it easy or difficult to leave your homeland?
We had known each other for five months when Alex (New’s Estonian husband) suggested that I visit his country. I was terrified! My sister scolded me – how could I go to an unknown country with such a new love? What if something happens? My sister is older and very protective. She has never left Thailand and is especially fearful.
But I loved my partner and didn’t want to lose him. And he loved and still loves me! So I took the risk and came to see what Estonia was like. Then, after two years of being together, Alex asked if I’d like to live here. I did. It wasn’t difficult.
Many foreigners who move here complain about the climate…
Oh, I love Estonia because I love the cold! I don’t really like Thailand’s weather anymore. It was never as hot as it has been in recent years!
If you could change something in Estonia, what would it be?
Oh, what should I change? There’s nothing I’d change right now. Maybe just a little bit about myself, not Estonia.
Let’s talk a bit about Estonian food?
I still don’t know exactly what Estonian food is! (Laughs heartily; the workers at the next table, pea soup in front of them, look at him in surprise.)
Do you know what sült is? (I describe sült, a traditional Estonian jellied meat dish.)
No. (New looks at me slightly startled.)
Should I buy some for you?
No. I don’t usually eat in the morning. In Thailand, we have rice soup for breakfast. I eat breakfast around noon. It’s too early for sült…
Estonians’ beloved Christmas dish is blood sausage. Does that scare you?
I’ve tried it. When I go to Italy, I don’t look for Thai food – I want to try the local cuisine. I eat what is served, out of politeness. I always try everything. If I don’t like something, I just avoid it next time.
You mentioned Italy. Have you had a chance to travel elsewhere in Europe besides Italy?
Not very much, unfortunately. Croatia, Finland, Italy and the Czech Republic. You know, in the Czech Republic there were so many Chinese tourists.
What would you do if you weren’t working as a chef?
If I get tired of running a restaurant, then maybe I’d like to start a company that takes people from Estonia to Thailand. You’ll come and travel to special places in Thailand with me and my friends!
What’s the most important thing you give to Estonia? Is it your amazing food?
I show myself! That’s the most important thing. I’m a real, genuine Thai. I smile. Many people ask, why are you always smiling? They ask if I’m crazy. Jokingly, of course. No, I’m not crazy, I’m Thai! And I’m myself. And that’s what I give to Estonia – I bring a different culture here. And I love Estonia!
Why?
Because I live here.
I walk with New to his restaurant, where Alex is setting everything up for the day.
“Please make your husband try Estonian sült!” I insist to New’s other half. “He has had it…” the partner replies, a bit at a loss, and reminds New. “Oh that thing!” the chef realises, adding: “Yes, I ate that. We have it in Thailand too…” “Not like this. Sült is completely different there…” Alex mutters under his breath – but loud enough to hear.
The article is part of the media programme “Estonia with many faces,” which highlights the richness and diversity of Estonian culture. The programme is supported by the Estonian Ministry of Culture and co-financed by the European Union.
